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The Muxes of Oaxaca



Mario Patinho / 1 July 2017 / Lukas Avendano, Muxhe Performance Artist. Zapotc Tehuanttepec, Mexico
Mario Patinho / 1 July 2017 / Lukas Avendano, Muxhe Performance Artist. Zapotc Tehuanttepec, Mexico

In the quiet southern valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico, an ancient truth lives openly in the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza. Here, gender is not just a binary concept—it flows in a more complex spectrum, rooted in Indigenous tradition. The Muxe (pronounced moo-she) is not a new identity but a centuries-old recognition of what many Western societies are just beginning to explore: that gender identity is not always either/or. It can also be both, neither, or something entirely unique.

Who Are the Muxes?

Muxes are often described as a “third gender” within Zapotec culture. They are people assigned male at birth who take on roles, dress, and behaviors that are traditionally associated with women. But to define them simply as men who dress as women would be a profound misunderstanding. Muxes do not always consider themselves transgender in the Western sense, nor do all identify as women. Instead, being a Muxe is its own gender identity—a cultural category that exists beyond the Western gender binary.

The Zapotecs, one of the Indigenous peoples of Mexico with a rich pre-Columbian history, have long recognized muxes as a natural part of their society. This stands in sharp contrast to the colonially imposed Catholic morality that has dominated much of Latin America. In Juchitán, muxes are not just accepted—they are celebrated.

As anthropologist Lynn Stephen noted, “In Juchitán, Muxe identity is less about sexual orientation and more about gender roles and social positioning. A Muxe can be a daughter, a caretaker, a friend to women, and a vital part of family and community rituals.”(Stephen, L. "Zapotec Transgender Muxe: Contested Discourses of Gender and Sexuality," Latin American Perspectives, 2002)

The Cultural Role of Muxes

Muxes traditionally take on roles in the home, caring for aging parents, managing domestic affairs, and even running small businesses or participating in civic life. Many are deeply religious, participating in Catholic festivals and ceremonies, often creating floral arrangements or sewing elaborate costumes for parades and church events.

Their presence blurs the lines between masculine and feminine, not just in appearance, but in function. They are caretakers, artists, teachers, and political voices. While some muxes are flamboyant and expressive, others are quiet and reserved. The beauty of this identity is its elasticity—it allows for a wide range of self-expression under one culturally meaningful label.

In the words of Marven, a well-known Muxe and political activist known by her stage name "Lady Tacos de Canasta," the identity is a source of pride:

“Being Muxe is a gift. We are not a modern trend. We have existed long before colonialism, and we will exist long after. We are the thread that ties together our past and our future.” (BBC, “Lady Tacos de Canasta: The Muxe taco seller fighting for LGBTQ rights,” 2021)

Why Does This Identity Exist?

To understand the presence of muxes in Zapotec society, one must understand the Indigenous worldview, where duality and balance are often seen as sacred. The Zapotec cosmology doesn’t draw strict lines between opposites. Instead, it sees masculine and feminine energies as complementary. A person who embodies both is often viewed as spiritually powerful or special.

This doesn’t mean muxes face no discrimination. While many are respected, particularly in Juchitán and nearby regions, Mexico as a whole—still heavily influenced by machismo and Catholic dogma—can be a dangerous place for gender non-conforming individuals. The rest of the country does not always reflect Juchitán’s level of tolerance.

However, in their community, muxes often command respect. Families may even feel pride in raising a Muxe child, seeing them as a blessing rather than a deviation.

A Celebration of Identity

Every November, Muxes gather for the Vela de Las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro, or “The Vigil of the Authentic Intrepid Seekers of Danger.” The title is as colorful as the event itself—a vibrant festival that combines traditional Zapotec rituals with queer celebration. Muxes dress in elaborate gowns, dance, eat, and honor their identity in the open.

This event is not just a party. It’s an assertion of existence, a reclaiming of identity, and a reminder that in Juchitán, muxes are not outcasts but honored members of society.

As one participant once told The Guardian:

“People come here thinking it’s like a drag show, but this is not play. This is who we are. This is our tradition, our truth.” (The Guardian, “In Mexico’s ‘third gender’ community, being Muxe is a centuries-old tradition,” 2017)

The Intersection of Tradition and Modernity

Today, muxes continue to redefine what it means to live authentically, navigating both ancient customs and contemporary challenges. Social media has helped amplify their stories to the wider world, but it has also exposed them to criticism and threats from more conservative sectors of Mexican society.

Still, many muxes are choosing to step into public life, to advocate for LGBTQ+ rights, and to educate others on the rich cultural tradition they represent. In a world where the LGBTQ+ community continues to fight for recognition and safety, the story of the muxes offers a powerful counter-narrative: one where queer identities have long existed in harmony with culture, family, and faith.

Final Thoughts

The existence of muxes challenges the rigid gender constructs many of us were taught to accept. Their lives are a testament to the fluidity of human experience and the power of culture to create space for authenticity. While not without struggle, the Muxe identity is ultimately one of resilience, community, and deep-rooted pride.

As the modern world grapples with issues of gender, perhaps there is something to learn from this small corner of Oaxaca, where tradition has long embraced complexity, and where being different is simply another way of being whole.



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